A Little Preview of Rappahannock Restaurant

Cured Scottish Salmon Trout with beets, soft boiled quail egg, creme fraiche and Grinnel caviar

So last night was the grand opening of Rappahannock Restaurant, the brand spanking new joint by those crafty Croxton cousins of Merroir, Rappahannock River Oysters and Rappahannock River Oyster Co. in DC. After finally nailing down that ever-elusive Richmond ABC license (just in time) and hoisting signage from artist Ed Trask, the Croxton's officially opened Rappahannock to a full and happily busy house.

As admitted Merroir junkies, where we often take our pup Hankdog along and sit riverfront to nosh oysters, crab cakes and clams, we weren't going to miss this one. With Prosecco on tap (yes, you heard that correctly), a stellar chef, Dylan Fultineer (of Hungry Cat and Hollister Brewing Co. in Santa Barbara) and Mixologist Katie Nelson (of The Columbia Room and Passenger in D.C.), we set out to stuff ourselves silly and that we did.

Rappahannock's menu boasts a solid raw bar with RR Oysters' signature bivalves as well as various caviars and cured seafood. The "From the Kitchen" section of the menu has an array of small and larger plates (good for sharing) and there are a few desserts along with a Virginia cheese plate for snacking. To drink, there's a solid draft beer list, plenty of tasty cocktails from Ms. Nelson and a wine list (priced by the glass as well as the bottle) that's built for seafood.

So, here's a taste of what you're in for if you plan to hit up Rappahannock and I highly suggest you do.

Rockfish and Barcat oyster Bourride with garlic, fennel, potatoes topped with grilled bread and a poached egg

Oysters and Pearls: 6 Rappahannock oysters topped with nori granita and trout caviar

Appalachian Heritage Farm's grilled pork belly with braised shell beans, apples and salsa verde

Grilled Virginia sea scallops over braised oxtail with roasted curried cauliflower

Northern Lights caviar with creme fraich egg salad and house-made cracker.

...

...which we shared with a certain Modern Gentleman and his beautiful fam to celebrate his birthday.

The open-air kitchen with chefs at work and a cameo (bottom left) of Merroir's Chef Peter!

©2012 Fatback and Foie Gras. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission,

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Cloth Bologna: What the Heck is It?

My dear husband, who often works long hours on the road in rural parts of Virginia (he is in sales) snapped this gem of a photo while touring the back roads of Grottoes, Virginia, which is not far from Weyers Cave (pronounced Weeerz not Wirez FYI), and is home to the fabulous Grand Caverns a.k.a. "America's Oldest Show Cave" (who knew?) and I just had to share it. You see...this sign spoke to me, and not just because it has a whole mess of hammy goodness drawn all over it (and cabbage for .44 cents a pound), but because they sell cloth bologna.

Image credit: Northern VA Daily

So, what the heck is cloth bologna? Basically, cloth bologna it bologna (a.k.a. various pieces parts, and let me emphasis the word "parts" here) all smushed up together and stored in a cloth bag instead of a more traditional casing (as in the red plastic stuff) with the argument being that the cloth bag lets in more air so all the pieces parts can "breathe" (this, and the fact that cloth bologna is homemade all the way).

Personally, I never grew up eating the stuff, mainly because it wasn't readily available where I lived, but I am seeing it offered more and more at produce stands throughout Virginia, so it has piqued my interest. I dig nothing more than a bologna sandwich on soft white bread (with just a squeeze of yellow mustard) and I figure a slice of the homemade stuff will make the perfect addition. Total, awesome kid food.

With a little assistance from the interwebs, I did find this article from Northern Virginia Daily featuring Crabill's Meats out of Toms Brook, Virginia, who apparently make a pretty fine version of cloth bologna that they boast isn't "junk bologna" (slaughter room floor goodies). Instead, they've "upped the quality" by using the same meats they use for making homemade sausages. I'm curious to check this place out, and the next time my husband passes through Grottoes, I'm gonna send him with a $20 bill to pick me up some of the good stuff

Have you tried cloth bologna? I'd love to know what you think and where you found it.

©2012 Fatback and Foie Gras. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.

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4 Things I Liked About Living Without Power

So, finally, after 5 days of sitting in the dark, cold showers and losing all of the contents of two refrigerators, including my prized condiment collection, I sit here with the lights on. Feel free to hate on me Richmond, but do know I understand your pain. When Isabel hit our Southside hood back in 2003, we lost power for a whopping 30 straight days and that included a boil advisory, so no water as well. As a result, our house was overrun with black mold and we had to have a couple of guys in Hazmat suits come in, clean the walls, floors and ceilings. They even had to rip open the walls and spray behind them to prevent mold spores from returning.

Good times.

So, like many Richmonders who weathered Irene's wrath only to witness their lights feverishly flickering for one, two, three and finally the last time before all went dark, this time we decided to try a different attitudinal approach to those wonderful entities we can't control. Part of this emotional overhaul involved cheesing out and looking at the bright side (feel free to slap me for even using that phrase) while trying to salvage the good, if any, that could be found from being forced to sit in the dark night after night only to freeze your tailhole off in the shower each morning. Here's what I came up with.

No More Reality Television

Not having television was a blessing in and of itself. It goes without saying that most of us lose a certain percentage of brain cells while watching hours upon hours of TV. There are several studies out there already making solid cases regarding the lasting effects of the idiot box. Throw in the fact that it's a pretty good libido killer, makes you fat and sedentary and causes everything from chronic eye strain and headaches to insomnia and excessive snacking, and in my opinion, TV should be banned altogether.

All of these pleasantries get even further magnetized when you throw in reality television. From Guy Fieri's bone-head cooking commentary, "Dude, that jammin' chili is totally money!" to Nadia G's Bitchin' Kichin', where said host (while dressed like a porn star) channels the love child of Tony Soprano and Vinnie Barbarino  while showing the rest of us how to make "Liquid Gold Chicken Broth", I figure whatever percentage of brain cells one might lose while watching Anderson Cooper giggle like a 6th grade girl quadruples when it comes to the rest of this crap. And, don't even get me started on the Kardashian's. Who are these people and why are they famous? They don't sing, dance, act, write, create art or contribute to society in any way other than offering the rest of us a voyeuristic gander at their impending weight gain.

I thank Irene for preserving a substantial part of my neocortex this week.

Going to Sleep at "Advanced Age" Hours

Is it dark outside? Time for bed! As many of you know, when the sun disappears and there's nary a light to be found within a 5 miles radius and it's a new moon, it's dark as hell. Just taking a whiz in the middle of the night is exercise in architectural memory and wall touching. So, why stay up staring at your dwindling candles when you can hop into bed and blissfully nod off while enjoying the soothing sounds of buzzing generators?

Waking up is even better, since for the first time in a long time, I actually arose with the sun and didn't feel like crap. Instead, I felt refreshed and ready for the day. Perhaps, I'll hit the mall for a little power walk or maybe do a bit of gardening. If the grocery stores are open, maybe I can get there at the ass crack of dawn to score some of the 50% off produce deals. Who wants to meet for watered down coffee and then chair yoga? I'm up, and I can do anything!

No More Electric Coffee Maker

No power doesn't necessarily have to mean no coffee, and I have to admit, not once did I miss my coffee making goods. Why? Two words: French press. Per usual, the French know what tastes the best, so let's get back to the basics of making coffee. While espresso machines make me all warm and fuzzy inside, I have found a new love...the basic press pot. Since we had a gas grill, each morning we could get some water, heat it up in a tea pot on the grill and then press away the essence of what makes coffee so incredible, which is essentially an immaculate combination of fine grounds and natural oils that are released directly from the beans into the water. It's coffee in its purest, natural form, and if you haven't tried it, you must, even if you decide to keep your electric coffee maker.

Twitter and Facebook

Sorry guys, but I missed neither of you. While Twitter was valuable during the height of the storm for news and updates, after that I was no longer smitten and more than happy to oh...I don't know... read a book. Furthermore, being away from social media for an extended period gave me a rather frightening realization. I am addicted. There, I said it, "My name is Kendra and I am addicted to social media." Let the healing begin.

The fact is, even though it's essential for my job as a freelancer writer, I spend way too much time voyeuristic-ally exploring every nook and cranny of both Facebook and Twitter, especially when I have writer's block, which is when I should be writing actual words versus characters. And, let's face it, how much truly valuable information does one really gain from Facebook? Your baby just spit up on her brand new Gymboree jumper? Rats, that's a bummer. Got a vacation coming up six months from now that you can't wait for and already posting your packing list? Can't wait to scroll through that one. Got close-up photos of that odd rash for all to see? Recommend getting off Facebook and making an appointment with the dermatologist ASAP.

And Twitter....  As I mentioned, it was valuable for information re: Irene, but on a daily basis, it honestly resembles one, long streaming advertisement. Yes, I have been guilty of adding my junk to that stream, and I will continue to do so unapologetically, but if one day I woke up to read (on Facebook I presume) that Twitter had disappeared...poof! Just like the dinosaurs. I would shed nary a tear. Instead, I'd pop open a bottle of bubbly and thank the good Lord for giving me my life back.

Got a positive when it comes to not having power? I'd love to hear it.

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An Evening at Lemaire with John Mariani

Chefs Bundy, Schroeder, Ayyash with John Mariani and my table mate who wasn't too fond of being the center of attention but was a great sport

About a month ago, one of my husband's buddies tipped us off to an upcoming wine dinner at one of Richmond's award-winning restaurants Lemaire at The Jefferson Hotel featuring an evening of classic Italian cooking (as well as Lemaire's signature seasonally-inspired cuisine) hosted by Esquire magazine's food, wine and travel expert, John Mariani, who was also there to promote his latest book, "How Italian Food Conquered the World".

It took us all of about 8 seconds to buy our tickets.

Last night, as the wine flowed (served up as a crisp San Pietro Pinot Grigio and a 2008 Seghesio Dolcetto D'Alba Chiesa), guests were treated to a menu described as a "synergy of three driving forces" involving the infiltration of Italian ingredients and culinary methods in America along with Virginia's own meats and produce, all of which that was to blend seamlessly with the season.

In addition to culling from Jefferson's own urban garden, Bundy Farms, welcome appearances came from OLLI Salumeria (in the form of a pungent and simply outstanding pancetta nestled into a big pile of ricotta gnocchi topped with Dave and Dee's grated eggs) as well as a local rabbit pate (served atop a classic bruschetta) that hailed from Jamerson Farms. A very seasonal Chesapeake Bay soft-shell crab was dusted in cornmeal (a welcome change from simply flouring) and a fall-off-the-bone tender braised pork cheek rested atop Charleston Gold Rice from Anson Mills. However, I have to say, the star of the show was Pastry Chef Sara Ayyash's beautifully executed Semifreddo al 'Torrone accented with salted caramel, which arrived just as it should, half-frozen and just a little melty around the edges.

Here's a brief pictorial with a few delectable highlights. Apologies in advance for the lack of lighting, but setting off a flash during date night is a faux pax I just don't do.

Trio of Bruschetta with Jamerson Farms rabbit, puree of favas and Hanover tomato caponata

Chesapeake Bay soft shell crab w/ three bean salad & pickled okra

Ricotta gnocchi w/ OLLI pancetta, grated farm eggs and Parmesan

Chef James Schroeder's Emilia-Romagna inspired fall-apart braised pork cheek w/ gold rice and cabbage

Pastry Chef Sarah Ayyash's rendition of a semifreddo made with Torrone and salted caramel.

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Crab Cakes: Chesapeake Bay Style from The Tides Inn

Chef Flynn's pan-fried crab cakes over buttery succotash w/ shrimp

So, let me start off by asking, who doesn't like a good crab cake?  Other than those poor souls bearing shellfish allergies, most folks turn into the human version of Pavlov's dog at the mere mention of the words: "crab" and  "cake". 

And let's face it.  Crab cakes are frightfully good.  From sandwiching one in-between two butter-brushed buns with crisp lettuce and homemade tartar to nesting a couple of fresh-fried cakes in pool of chive infused buerre blanc, the ubiquitous crab cake has stood the test of time to become one the most popular menu items featured in restaurants from coast to coast.

This past weekend, I was rewarded with a crab (and oyster, lamb, and local wine) adventure of epic proportions while visiting The Tides Inn  in historic Irvington, Virginia.  The Tides is a magical place located along the Chesapeake Bay with gorgeous water frontage right on Carter's Creek.

 

It's an Inn that boasts an incredible history.  From its opening day in 1947, where the first dining room menu proudly offered its guests, "Native Soft Shell Crabs Saute in Almond Butter" and "Baked Filet of Rappahannock Trout in Lemon Butter" to today, where Executive Chef T.V. Flynn surprises with "Cedar Roasted Lamb Porterhouses topped with Garden Fresh Mint Pesto" and "Virginia Coast Diver Scallops with Oven-Roasted Cauliflower and Farmer's Market Butternut Squash Puree", The Tides Inn has consistently remained a culinary retreat offering some of the best of what the Chesapeake region of Virginia has to offer.

Many of the ingredients served at the Inn's restaurant are culled locally, either from the local Irvington Farmer's Market or from General Manager, Gordon Slatford's extensive personal gardens, where he grows everything from tomatoes and peppers to his own luffa sponges.  Naturally, seafood follows suit with local delicacies such as oysters, clams and rockfish (a true Virginia specialty) being drawn from the waters right outside the Inn's back door.

On the evening of our final night at the Inn, it was all about the crab cake.  All lump with very little filler, we scarfed these guys down in two quick bites and fought for more.  Chef Flynn served his crab-laden creation atop a buttery succotash accented with fresh, local butter beans and a lone sweet shrimp.  And, as if these small plate goodies weren't enough on their own, the Chef then grilled up a couple dozen local Rappahannock oysters just as the sun was beginning to set over the creek.

The oysters, after being drizzled in a little butter were beautifully accented by the Chef's homemade pickled watermelon rind, making these one-slurp wonders an immaculate combination of zing and brininess.  Once paired with a glass of Virginia's own Ingleside Pinot Grigio, it became clear that the food gods were shining down on Carter's Creek that final evening. What a send-off it was....

My first inclination is to suggest, that in order to properly relive this seafood extravaganza, you must book a weekend at The Tides ASAP.  Yet, for some folks, especially those on temporary vacation hold, this may not be immediately possible. For you, the Chef has agreed to generously share his virtually-no-filler recipe for crab cakes, Chesapeake Bay style, so you too, can experience a little taste of The Tides Inn when making these fried gems within the comfort of your own home.

But first, a couple of pointers on creating swoon-worthy crab cakes that every home cook should know.

It goes without saying that jumbo lump is where it's at, so it's worth every penny to invest in the good stuff, and that means, no cheating with backfin.  Also, we lover's of the Chesapeake Bay must recommend our own blue crab as the almighty best.  

When it comes to picking the shell bits out of your crab meat, which are almost always there, be gentle.  While you might be in a hurry, it's important not to crush the crab meat, especially the lumps.  You want those in there.  Hence, the words "jumbo lump".

When it comes to seasoning, less is most definitely more.  Go easy on the mayo, breadcrumbs etc....  If you find you're having trouble with your cakes falling apart when frying due to minimal binder, after shaping them, pop them in the fridge for about 30 minutes so they'll set up a bit.  And, speaking of frying, it's always best to fry in small batches.  Avoid crowding your cakes or they'll steam and not develop that crispy outer coating we all know and love.

When it comes to oil and pans, I'm a cast-iron and peanut oil gal myself.   However, you can just as easily fry in nonstick with vegetable oil or a combination of butter and oil if you're feeling decadent.  To serve, all you may need is a dollop of tartar, but if you want to emulate the Chef's dish, you can serve your crab cakes atop a pile of succotash or my recipe for sauteed butter beans with bacon.

Chesapeake Bay Crab Cakes  

Courtesy of  Executive Chef T.V. Flynn of The Tides Inn

2 pounds jumbo lump crabmeat

1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
½ teaspoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
½ cup cracker crumbs
2 eggs
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Worcestershire
½ teaspoon Tabasco
Salt and Pepper

Cooking oil, for shallow frying (about a 1/4 cup)

Pick through the crabmeat to check for shell pieces, being careful not to break up the lumps.

Place crabmeat in a large bowl and add the Old Bay, dry mustard, parsley and cracker crumbs.  Gently mix.

In a separate bowl, combine the eggs, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco. Whisk to mix and pour over the crabmeat mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Mix lightly and portion in cakes. 

Preheat a cast iron pan or skillet to medium-high and add the oil. When it's shimmering, fry your crab cakes in batches.  Drain well and serve hot.

Serves 8-10

Note: This recipe is easy to halve.

©2010 Fatback and Foie Gras. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission Pin It Now!