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Friday, March 9, 2012

First Cooking Show Segment: BLT Deviled Eggs Recipe

So, my first cooking segment with The Virginia Farm Bureau's monthly program "Real Virginia" which features Virginia-focused agricultural news, profiles as well as gardening segments is officially up and running. About a month ago, I was contacted by the Farm Bureau to step in for Chef John Maxwell (who has since taken a teaching position in Florida) as the new culinary segment host for "Heart of the Home", a televised cooking demonstration featuring the best of Virginia's produce, meats and locally made products.

We spent an afternoon shooting three segments at Sur La Table at Stony Point which houses my dream kitchen as well as a collection of cooking tools worth weeping over. If you haven't taken a cooking class there yet, by all means do. By the end of the day, we had all three segments in the can including this recipe for BLT Deviled Eggs, which essentially combines all the deliciousness found in a bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich and stuffs it into a classic Southern-style deviled egg. It's a great recipe that's super easy to make, and man oh man, is it satisfying. Salty bacon meets creamy eggs yolks and home-canned bread and butter pickles for a sweet and savory combo that really hits the spot. Be sure to visit your local farmer's market to buy some Virginia farm-fresh eggs for this one. Check out the full recipe below or visit Heart of the Home online. In the meantime, check out the video.


Not my best "still" shot here ;)

Sweet and Savory BLT Deviled Eggs


Makes 12 deviled eggs

6 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon bread and butter pickles, finely minced
3 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled into small bits
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
A handful of shredded iceberg lettuce, for garnish

Slice eggs in half long ways and pop out the yolks. In a medium-sized bowl, mix together yolks, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, bread and butter pickles and bacon. Add cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper, to taste.

Fill a piping bag or plastic storage bag (with the corner snipped off) and pipe filling into each of the eggs. Hint: place eggs on a paper towel so they don’t slide around while you fill them.

Once you’ve used up all the filling, assemble eggs on a platter and top each one with a cherry tomato half. Then sprinkle each egg with a little shredded iceberg lettuce. Chill until ready to serve.

©2011 Fatback and Foie Gras. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.
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Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Ode to the Perfect Burger

I say, the messier the better.
For the past two weeks, I've been overhauling my diet, which has included forgoing all sugar, empty refined carbs (bread, crackers, sweets, chips etc...) and fried or processed anything. Meals at home that were once redolent with the aroma of Italian sausages simmering in a rich tomato sauce just waiting to be spooned onto a pile of al dente rigatoni, piled high hot dogs topped with chili sauce and creamy cole slaw, and twice-baked potatoes stuffed with cream, cheese and bacon have been replaced with grilled fish and steamed broccoli, huge salads topped with chicken breast and lots and lots of water.

So, why are doing this to yourself you ask? Because in the past year and half, I managed to gain a cool tener...yes, I have gained ten pounds thanks to a diet of french fries dipped in mayo, too many glasses of Belgian beer and way too many yummy, salty goodies coated in orange powder. There was once a time in a land far, far away where I could readily partake of these deliciously evil food stuffs without consequence. However, now that I have passed the 40 year mark, those days, those lovely, lovely days where a mere 2 mile jog could undo the Plato Gordo and a jumbo margarita are distant memories.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not giving up everything nor am I trying to pull an about face and suddenly start preaching a healthy lifestyle after hawking some of the worst food on the planet. Heck, my blog is stilled named Fatback and Foie Gras and so it will remain. I'm just trying to get some stubborn poundage off my belly, which was inevitably brought on by a combination of crappy diet and old age, something for you youngin's to look forward to.
Having said this, I still believe that many of these unmentionables still have a place in my life, otherwise I seriously can't go on, so while I'm lacing my up running shoes a few more times each week and subbing out grilled salmon for country fried steak a bit more, I will still partake of all that's food worthy in this world, just not every night, and this includes one tasty item that very few can resist, especially me-- the hamburger.

When it comes to burgers, I am a classics gal. While topping a burger with blue cheese, barbecue sauce, fried eggs, avocado, or even Spam is noteworthy and preferred by some, I like my burger done up the old-fashioned way with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle and maybe cheddar or American cheese, but that's me. However you decide to pile it on and whatever you prefer, here are a few tips to help you make the best (i.e. your own "perfect") burger at home.


1. Don't skimp on the quality of the bun. Much of a burger's beauty comes from sinking your teeth into a soft, chewy bun that's soaked up just the right amount of meat grease. A poor quality, dried out bun is a great way to ruin your burger eating experience. I personally like Martin's potato rolls especially their seeded buns which seem to scream, "put a big hunk of grilled meat on me!"

2. The meat. First it's got to be 80/20 or at least 85/15, which means there's a decent amount of fat ground up with the beef. Super lean burgers, while healthier, most often end up as dried up hockey pucks on a bun, so I say, if you're gonna eat a burger, eat a stinkin' burger in all its glory and make it a good one. Also, ground chuck makes for the best burger meat in my opinion.

3. Be nice to your meat. When it comes to shaping your patties, avoid over handling them. Gently roll them into balls and then flatten with your hand, and don't make them too thin (unless you like them that way). Also, I've found that pressing an indentation into the middle of the burger with your thumb before placing it on the grill or pan helps the meat to do a bit of self basting as it cooks. Finally, season generously with salt and pepper (or other seasonings of your choice) on both sides just before grilling and not before. Salt breaks down proteins in the meat, so you don't want your burger marinating in it.

4. Put your burger on the grill or in the pan and don't touch it! Step away from the pan. Flipping your burger around too many times results in a fully cooked burger with minimal sear, and let's face it, one of the best parts of a burger is that lovely blackened char on the outside. Finally, this tip bears repeating. Do not press your burger with a spatula while you cook it unless you want to extract every drop of juiciness. This is a big no-no as is overcooking your burger, so if you're unsure about the difference between medium-rare and well-done, use a meat thermometer.

5. On piling it on. As I mentioned previously, whatever you want to put on your burger is ok by me. However, don't pile on too much stuff, especially wet ingredients like tomatoes, sauces etc...unless you're ok eating your hamburger with a knife and fork. Layer your toppings on both sides of the burger to avoid squeezing all the goods out of the bun. For instance, I like to put a little mustard and some sliced or minced onions on the bottom bun. Then, I add the burger meat and top with lettuce, tomato, pickle, a bit of ketchup and then slather some mayo on the top bun. I also lightly grill my bun to keep it from getting soggy.

It snowed yesterday and now it's supposed to be 70 degrees in a day or two. I say, it's time to fire up the grill and make a couple of burgers. Perhaps I'll be splurging along with you since, Lord knows, I am seriously craving one right now.

Got a tip for making the perfect burger or a special combination of toppings that makes your burger special? Feel free to share it.

©2012 Fatback and Foie Gras. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission. Pin It Now!

Friday, February 24, 2012

Make Mine Virginia Wine

Gearhart's Criolla chocolates were the perfect ending
Last night, we had the pleasure of attending the 2012 Virgina Wineries Governor's Cup Gala where the top 12 scoring Virginia wines, based on a brand spanking new highly rigorous judging system, vied for the top spot at what now has become one of the most "stringent and thorough wine competitions in the United States", according to a press release distributed by the Office of Governor Bob McDonnell.
The 12 finalists selected from a pool of more than 400 entries were:

Bluestone Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
Delfosse Vineyards & Winery 2007 Meritage Blend
Jefferson Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc
Keswick Vineyards 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Glen Manor 2009 Hodder Hill Meritage
Keswick Vineyards 2010 Merlot
King Family Vineyards 2008 Meritage Blend
Potomac Point Winery 2009 Heritage Reserve Meritage Blend
Tarara Winery 2010 Honah Lee White Vinifera Blend
Trump Winery 2008 Kluge SP Blanc de Blanc Sparkling
Veritas 2010 Vintner's Reserve Meritage Blend
White Hall Vineyards 2010 Gewurztraminer

Ultimately, the Governor's Cup would be awarded to Glen Manor Vineyards 2009 Hodder Hill Meritage, a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot.
Jeff White, Glen Manor's Winemaker & 4th generation VA farmer

There were plenty of other standout wines at the event as well including a particularly lovely King Family 2008 Meritage served up by winemaker Matthieu Finot (sporting a rather dapper mini-handle bar mustache) along with a 2010 Veritas Vintner's Reserve which truly captured the essence of what makes Virginia's Bordeaux-style blends so outstandingly good.
One of my personal favorites was the 2010 White Hall Gewurztraminer an Alsatian-style wine made from a blend of Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Petit Manseng and Viognier grapes. All that was missing was a big plate of shrimp Vindaloo, some channa masala and a couple of pieces of hot Tandoori naan.

Conspicuously absent from the final 12 that made the Governor's Cup Case was Barboursville Vineyards 2008 Cab Franc Reserve, which was recently awarded "Best in Class" at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the wine world's largest competition of American wines, yet only received a silver medal at the 2012 Governor's Cup, which ultimately edged this nationally recognized wine out of the finals.

Conspicuously present was the grand dame herself, Patricia Kluge, who was there to pour Trump Winery's 2008 Kluge SP Blanc de Blanc Sparkling along with her signature brandy infused Chardonnay simply named Cru.
In the end a good time was had by all, yet most importantly, I was once again reminded of how truly outstanding Virginia wines are and how far the industry has come. As of 2012, Virginia now has 220 wineries and is ranked 5th in U.S. for total wine grape production. Just recently, Virginia was listed as one of the top 10 wine travel destinations in the world for 2012 according to Wine Enthusiast Magazine, so if you're not getting out there and sucking down some local juice, you are really missing out because some of the best stuff in the world is being produced right in your own backyard. With this in mind, March is about a become a big month for Virginia wines as it has been officially declared as Virginia Wine and Dine Month with hundreds of participating wine shops and restaurants offering special tasting menus featuring local wines.

Finally, don't forget today kicks off a long weekend of Virginia wine tasting at the Virginia Wine Expo at the Convention Center. Over 70 wineries will be present along with a bevy wine and food pairing demo's, gourmet lunches and food tastings. This is a not-to-be-missed event.
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Friday, February 17, 2012

Exciting News: I'm Going to Be Cooking on TV

Image courtesy of Virginia Dept. of Agriculture
Yes, it's true, and dang-it, I am so excited I'm about to blast-off. As some of you may know, I had a pretty big setback this past month when my cookbook proposal, which I spent many months working on, was rejected at the last minute. Since then, in addition to doing quite a bit of pouting and moping around, I've been keeping my eyes peeled for interesting opportunities because I refuse to give up on the dream.

Well, someone upstairs must have be looking out for me, because about a week ago an email arrived in my inbox from a producer asking me if I was interesting in coming on to host a few cooking segments for "The Heart of the Home" which is part of the show, "Real Virginia" created by the The Virginia Farm Bureau which profiles local farmers, foods and purveyor's all across the Commonwealth. In a nutshell, this is a program that is all about Virginia grown, buying local and supporting Virginia's farmers. What could be cooler?

Currently, "Real Virginia" airs on Dish, DirectTV, and many independent cable operators throughout the state. It's a show that has been in production for over ten years with Sherri McKinney as lead host, Mark Viette as the garden expert, and one of my favorite people, Chef John Maxwell (a.k.a. Chef Maxwell's Kitchen), serving as culinary expert and cooking segment host. However, Chef Maxwell has since taken a position at a culinary school in Florida.

Words cannot express how excited I am about this opportunity, not only because it will get me out of my rejection rut, but because I'll have the opportunity to actively promote and support Virginia growers and purveyors.

Keep an eye out here for more...much, much more. I'll be sharing great recipes that celebrate local food, wine, cheeses and other Virginia products. I'll also be posting links to view the show online (along with my cooking segments). Shooting begins next week, and the first episode should be up and running in March.

I hope you'll watch!

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Thursday, February 9, 2012

Peter Chang Descends on Richmond

Peter Chang's lamb chops with *cough* a few dried red chili peppers.
He came. He saw. He cooked 25 different dishes, and like a bedraggled pack of wild animals we ate all of it, stopping only briefly to wipe the sweat off our brows while marveling at the fact that our lips had gone completely numb. The ever-elusive Peter Chang has done it again, swooping down on some poor unsuspecting Southern village with his army of Szechuan peppercorns, red chili peppers, chili oils, scallions and black vinegar, and with the deftness of a cleaver splitting open a freshly smoked duck, successfully made the whole lot of us his personal food bitch.
There were steamed Shanghai-style dumplings filled with ground pork-- so light and delicate yet still yielding to the tooth served with a pucker-up sour dipping sauce redolent with vinegar, ginger and garlic chives. Peter Chang's wife, Lisa, is a pastry expert in her own right, so perhaps these delightful bamboo steamed purses were one of her unique creations?
The beauty of Szechuan cooking is the careful marriage of its seven basic flavors: pungent, sour, hot, bitter, sweet, aromatic and salty. It's culinary balance in its purest form. It's an experience. From tickling the lips with numbing Szechuan peppercorns to drying the tongue with bits of tannic bitter melon, flavors arrest the palate in symphony's not quartets. It's playful cuisine designed to challenge the senses with seemingly infinite variations of texture, taste and sensory hot followed by cool.

Dry fried eggplant is crispy on the outside yet melts in the mouth once its outer shell has been broken. Chili peppers and peppercorns become almost prickly on the tongue yet subside as the soft, mild vegetable settles in. Classic shrimp toast is accented with spicy salt and freshly ground shrimp resting atop bread that is expertly deep fried while crispy spring rolls are far from the regular stuff and are filled with coriander and fish. Hot and numbing dry beef does exactly that, yet still retains its signature Sichuan jerky-that's-been-deep-fried quality, which results from a laborious four-part cooking process.

Those were just some of the passed appetizers and snacks we sampled. There was still dinner.

And, what a meal it was. Arriving family-style, with one seemingly endless dish passed around after another, our senses were teased again and again. Slippery Dan Dan noodles, which one well-known Richmond chef comically renamed "Jesus noodles" because they're that stinkin' good, arrived to the table swimming in a broth of chili oil, preserved vegetables, black rice vinegar, sherry and ground pork topped with minced scallions.
It wasn't long before a hand swooped in to stir the entire concoction (that hand belonging to Mary Lee, wife of Chang's business partner, Gen Lee).
And so it went. Course after course, hot pot after hot pot, it just kept coming, and we couldn't get enough of it. From a spicy sour chicken soup that we were instructed to top with rice a la chicken gumbo to the milder "House Special" fish filet, which married meltingly tender tilapia in a subtly hot broth laced with ginger, wood ear mushrooms, cabbage and broccoli.
Hot pot of sour chicken arrives.
Ate it gumbo-style.
A pork rib and wild mushroom soup cleansed away the heat with bits of on-the-bone braised meat swimming in a umami-laden clear broth of mushrooms and mini dumplings.
Jumbo shrimp were butterflied and topped with a three-pepper mixture and were beautifully presented with scattered bits of cilantro and scallions.
Alas, all good things must eventually come to an end, so we wrapped up our meal with a particularly stellar sesame bun filled with sweet red bean paste and called it a night.
To wit, Peter Chang's latest venture, which rather ironically sits front and center in one of Richmond's least adventurous eating destinations forcing it rather sadly to compete with 1500 calorie slices of brownie sundae cheesecakes and faux Chinese chain food conglomerates begs the question: how will Richmond ultimately respond to the arrival of the man Todd Kliman from The Washingtonian calls "the perfect chef"?

Without question, foodies of all shapes and sizes will flock to Chang's latest west end eatery, but will anyone who actually lives there be pulling up a chair on a regular basis (which is an important factor when it comes to the longevity of a restaurant)? Part of me wishes that the Short Pump crowd will rise to the occasion while the other half, the really selfish half, wants the whole kit and kaboodle to move closer to the city. Here's to hoping for a happy medium.

In the meantime, enjoy a few more tasty photos from last night's event and get thee to the Chang stat.
The man, the myth, the generally happy guy, Chef Chang.

Details: 
Peter Chang
11424 West Broad Street
(804) 364-1688
Sun-Thur 10:00 am - 10:00 pm
Fri-Sat 11:00 am - 10:30 pm

©2012 Fatback and Foie Gras. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.
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